Sake

The popularity of this fermented rice beverage has exploded in recent years. Here are a few places that are serious about sake.

Katana

At this Sunset Strip looker, you’ll find one of the most extensive sake lists in town: nearly 50 choices by the bottle, most from boutique producers. In fact, Katana is the only place in the country featuring several specialty sakes from Suehiro Brewery, including junmai koshu, an earthy, aged brew, and for delicate palates, a sparkling sake. Don’t want to commit to an entire bottle? Consider the sake sampler.

* Glass, $5 to $14; bottle, $19 to $190; sampler, $15. 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. (323) 650-8585.

Umenohana

The sake list is compact: just six cold varieties and one hot. But as with everything at this stunning new tofu and yuba (soy milk skin) specialty restaurant, presentation is key. Order the hot Shochikubai, and your waiter will deliver a basket containing several handmade ceramic cups from which to choose.

* Glass, $12 to $65; bottle, $27 to $255. 443 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (310) 860-9236.

Thousand Cranes

One of the most enchanted spots in L.A., this dining room overlooks a picturesque Japanese garden. Seven sakes are available by the glass or carafe. There’s also a list of nearly a dozen bottles with descriptions. Demon Slayer, for instance, is “elegant and alluring with tropical fruit flavors.”

* Glass, $8 to $13; carafe, $16 to $39; bottle, $16 to $85. 120 S. Los Angeles St., L.A. (213) 253-9255.

Zen Grill & Sake Lounge

In addition to 40-plus bottle offerings and a dozen by the glass or decanter, this stylish spot serves up sake cocktails such as the Red Sun, with cranberry juice, Triple Sec and lime. Sake purists might scoff at such stuff, but these icy blends nicely counter the spice of dishes like Mongolian lamb.

* Glass, $4 to $12; decanter, $7 to $23; bottle, $15 to $150. 1051 Broxton Ave., Westwood. (310) 209-1994.

Sai Sai

To complement chef Ricardo Zarate’s confident cooking -- think black cod baked in wood, which imparts a subtle smokiness to the rich, oily fish -- there are nearly a dozen sake choices. We’re partial to the Hakutsuru Ginjo, a smooth, aromatic sake served in an individual bottle chilled on ice.

* Individual serving, $5.95 to $14.95; bottle, $15 to $120. 501 S. Olive St., L.A. (213) 624-1100.

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-- Leslee Komaiko