Cascades Wilderness Is All in the Family

The Three Sisters Wilderness in central Oregon has long been recognized as something special by conservationists, its federal custodians and even by Congress. A Primitive Area was established in 1937 and the area was one of the nation’s first to receive protection under the landmark 1964 Wilderness Act. Expanded in 1977 and 1984, Three Sisters Wilderness now totals 283,402 acres, the largest such area in Oregon’s Cascades.

A part of the Willamette and Deschutes national forests, Three Sisters is approachable by two scenic roads--McKenzie Highway (Oregon 242) and Cascade Lake Highway (Oregon 46). An alternate route, which is even better because it avoids the heavy snowpack on McKenzie Pass, is an approach on the east side of the Cascades. This allows the hiker a stop for trail information and permits at the ranger stations in Sisters or Bend.

A handsome 40-mile stretch of Pacific Crest Trail crosses the wilderness, which is also blessed with 200 more miles of trail. Footpaths reach wildflower-strewn alpine meadows and inviting camps, and give climbers access to challenging peaks and fishermen access to 300 lakes.

Methodist missionaries in the mid-1800s named the trio of sisterly summits Faith, Hope and Charity, but the names didn’t stick. North Sister, the geologic elder, stands 10,085 feet; Middle Sister 10,047 feet; South Sister, at 10,350 feet, is both the highest and youngest of the three and presents the distinctly conical profile of your basic volcano. North Sister’s summit has been severely eroded by glaciers and looks more like a volcano core than a volcano cone.

The volcanic trio is a treat for photographers, but a worry for scientists, some of whom fear the long-dormant Sisters might someday erupt like that supposedly extinct Cascade volcano, Mt. St. Helens.

Certainly one of the most breathtaking views of the Sisters is from the town of the same name. Sisters (the town) also boasts vistas of Mt. Washington and Mt. Jefferson. The Sisters and surrounding summits, snowcapped for much of the year, form an awesome skyline for the little town.

The town, founded in the 1880s, was a ranching center and mill town before hard times hit it. It was rescued from boarded-up oblivion in the early 1970s and has evolved into a resortvillage complete with art walks and music festivals.

Adding an exotic touch to this most American scene are many llamas grazing in fields at the outskirts of town. Central Oregon--the Sisters area in particular--is considered the llama capital of North America.

Until the early 1970s, the South American mammals were considered zoo attractions, not working pack animals. Sisters’ llama ranchers began breeding, raising and training the animals. Now the sure-footed animals carry the cargo of families, fly-fishermen, backpackers and photographers. Public lands managers appreciate the llamas’ low impact on wilderness trails and herbage.

Les Joslin, retired U.S. Navy commander, got to know Three Sisters Wilderness very well a few years back when, at the Forest Service’s behest, he conducted a campsite survey. Joslin’s on-the-ground survey included hiking to all trail-side lakes--and many lakes off the trail--in order to record and evaluate campground conditions and impacts to the ecology. Joslin walked a couple of hundred miles, slapped at a couple of thousand mosquitoes and emerged from the experience with both a thorough report and a heightened love for the land.

“If there’s anything as satisfying as hiking in the wilderness, it’s working with people who appreciate the majesty of an environment like the Three Sisters,” Joslin says.

After Joslin’s back-country study, the Forest Service asked him to staff a new information station at the Sisters’ major point-of-entry, the Green Lakes trail head.

One of the most special treks is a tour of the Green Lakes area of the wilderness. The green color of the lakes comes from the ultra-fine silt ground by adjacent Lewis Glacier. Three Green Lakes nestle in a glacier-scooped hollow between South Sister and Broken Top Mountain.

One of the wilderness area’s most scenic trails climbs 4.2 miles to the lakes. It follows alongside a roaring creek, through a fir forest, and across a wall of obsidian blocks, the hardened lava that long ago flowed from South Sister.

Beauty you’ll get from this trail, but not solitude. The route is the most heavily used in the Three Sisters Wilderness, prompting the Forest Service to limit overnight camping permits and to require permits for day hikers as well. Camping near the lake is forbidden and travel is restricted around some “restoration zones.” September is the least crowded month for back-country exploration.

You can make this an 8.5-mile out-and-back day hike or follow a 13-mile looping return via Broken Top and Soda Creek trails. The looping return isn’t quite as scenic, but you’ll share the wilderness with fewer hikers.

The Green Lakes-bound path begins at Sparks Lake and ascends steeply alongside Fall Creek, a rambunctious watercourse of cascades and small falls. About two miles out, the path leaves the creek, passes a junction with Moraine Lake Trail and heads around a glassy wall of black obsidian.

The main trail leads to the right (east) side of the lake. By linking a couple connector trails, you can loop around all three lakes while marveling at the mountain vistas.

When you’re ready to leave Green Lakes, head east on Crater Ditch Trail for nearly three miles to a junction with Soda Creek Trail; follow this fairly easy pathway back to the trail head.

Access: From Oregon 97 in Bend, follow the well-marked 27-mile roadway to the Mt. Bachelor Ski Area. From here, drive 4.5 miles south on Oregon 46 (Cascades Lake Highway) to the signed Green Lakes trail head on the north (right) side of the highway. The large parking lot reflects this path’s popularity. For a trail update and a hiking permit, check in at the Wilderness Information kiosk.

*

Green Lakes, Broken Top, Soda Creek Trails

WHERE: Green Lakes, Three Sisters Wilderness

TERRAIN: Volcanic peaks, alpine meadows, lots of lakes.

HIGHLIGHTS: Terrific Cascade Range hiking.

DISTANCE: 13-mile loop with 1,100-foot elevation gain.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY: Moderate to strenuous.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: Sisters Hanger District, U.S. Forest Service, P.O. Box 249, Sisters, OR 97759; tel. (541) 549-2111, Sisters Area Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 430, Sisters, OR 97759; tel. (541) 549-0251.