Memories of a Cactus Eater

I was born and raised in Mexico, the land of the cactus.

More than landscape, the cactus played a role in the founding of the grand city of Tenochtitlan, which became modern-day Mexico City. According to legend, the Aztecs were led to a place where, as their prophets predicted, an eagle sat atop a cactus devouring a snake. This is where they built their city.

Since then, though without such drama, the cactus has been an important part of everyday Mexican life. The eagle devouring the snake on the cactus is emblazoned today on Mexico’s flag and all its coins and government buildings.

Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve been fond of the many varieties of cactus, or prickly pear, that shape Mexico’s countryside. At home and in my grandmother’s house, we ate nopales, as cactus paddles are called in Spanish, at least once a week. They were prepared in many ways.

There were delicious and colorful salads, tasty appetizers, refined soups. There were moles with nopales and even an occasional cactus dessert. In late summer, we would always have ice cold tunas, the luscious remains of the cactus flower.

But there were also times when cactus paddles created chaos at home. I remember vividly, for instance, the commotion produced one day when cactus was brought home from the market. It was as if a lethal weapon had been brought into the house because none of the children were allowed to come close to the big canastas that contained the paddles.

Of course, my brother, sister and I loved to peek into the market baskets each day to figure out what we would be eating later. My brother, especially, liked to be warned when vegetables would be prominent on the menu. My father never allowed any of us to leave the table until our plates were clean; a little notice gave my brother time to steel himself for the meal.

On the days we were told to stay away from the baskets, nobody bothered to explain why. We grew more and more curious. We tried to sneak glances at the inside of the basket but to no avail. My brother was so desperate to solve the mystery that he stuck his hand inside the basket and found out the hard way what was inside: cactus paddles, thorns and all.

A cactus’ thorns are, of course, the plant’s sharp defense mechanism. And the thorns are the reason the plant demands delicate handling in the kitchen.

Perhaps they are also at the heart of the Mexican saying, “A cactus will only be admired when it has fruit.”

Luckily, from a cook’s perspective, this saying isn’t really true. Once the thorns are removed, cactus paddles make delicious eating in both humble and celebratory dishes.

I remember a country wedding in the central Mexican state of Michoacan that took place in a gorgeous 18th century church, in a town once famous for the richness of its gold mines. We walked from the church, along a beautiful dirt road lined with cactus and maguey on both sides, to the banquet site on top of a small hill that overlooked the placid valley.

There was one huge table, at least 90 feet long, adorned with spotless white linen and beautiful flowers. Placed on the table every few seats were small cazuelitas (saucepans) filled with green, red, purple and yellow salsas and chiquihuites (small baskets) to keep the tortillas warm. Toward one end of the property there were several enormous earthenware dishes on a wood fire. On top of one were dozens of tortillas that resembled sponged golden suns. Next to them was another dish in which thinly cut rounded cactus paddles were cooking. As soon as they were cooked, they were filled with fresh creamy cheese and cilantro, then rolled to make small taquitos to be eaten as appetizers.

Before the food was served, I made a bet with my husband. I told him I had a gut feeling that the main dish would be made with cactus. I was right. Instead of the traditional mole with chicken, our hosts served a variation, cactus mole. That day we got our portion of cactus both in the landscape and in the food of this pretty region, and we loved every second of it.

As I traveled outside Mexico, I found that cactus is not solely a Mexican delicacy. I discovered a cactus fruit vendor near the Damascus Gate in Jerusalem during the Six Day War in 1967. Witnessing the horrors of war during the day in the countryside, I’d retreat as the sun set to the city, which would suddenly come to life at night.

The cactus stand became a rendezvous place for the friends I was with. As we’d wait for our friends, often with the heavy desert heat pounding on us, we’d refresh ourselves with succulent cactus pear, coolly packed in ice. Eating those deliciously ice-cold fruits with the war around us was like finding an oasis. I will never forget those moments.

Years later, I discovered that there is still another way to enjoy cactus that I had yet to try. I’d been suffering from heartburn and having trouble getting medicine for the pain from my HMO. My mother heard about my problem and told me that I didn’t need medicine--I needed cactus juice. Mom’s advice: Start each day with a glass of cactus juice.

In shock, I asked her: “Cactus, for breakfast?”

Casually, she suggested that I add a little papaya juice. “It tastes better.”

Strange as it may seem, after only a few days, I discovered that maternal wisdom should never be discounted. Cactus juice may not work for everyone, but it’s delicious, easy to prepare, reasonably priced and, best of all, I’ve had no recurrence of heartburn. Call it the power of the cactus or just another reminder that Mom is always right.

ORANGE, GRAPEFRUIT OR PAPAYA JUICE WITH CACTUS

1 3-inch-square piece cactus paddle

1 cup orange, grapefruit or papaya juice

Puree cactus and juice in blender and strain into glass for serving.

1 serving.

132 calories; 5 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 31 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.18 grams fiber.

CACTUS BOTANA

6 small cactus paddles

3/4 pound panela cheese, cut in 12 equal pieces

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Cut cactus paddles in half or use biscuit cutter to cut each paddle into two 3-inch-round pieces.

Place cactus pieces in single layer on baking sheet and broil, turning once, until soft, about 5 minutes, depending on freshness and size of cactus. (Note: The fresher the cactus, the less time it takes to cook.)

Remove from oven and top each piece with slice of cheese, 1/2 teaspoon olive oil and pinch of oregano. Serve hot.

12 servings. Each serving:

141 calories; 443 mg sodium; 20 mg cholesterol; 11 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.93 grams fiber.

CACTUS TAQUITO

6 cactus paddles, cut in half

1/4 cup olive oil

3/4 pound queso mexicano fresco

Cream cheese or goat cheese may be substituted for the queso mexicano fresco.

Brush both sides of cactus paddles with oil and place them in single layer on baking sheet. Broil, turning once, until soft, about 5 minutes. Spread with cheese and roll up like small taco.

12 servings. Each serving:

161 calories; 443 mg sodium; 20 mg cholesterol; 13 grams fat; 6 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 1.93 grams fiber.

DRESS-UP CACTUS (30 MINUTES OR LESS)

1 tablespoon chopped onion

1 tablespoon oil

2 tomatoes, chopped

2 cups water

12 small cactus paddles, chopped (about 5 cups)

2 eggs

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt

2 dried pasilla chiles

8 corn tortillas, optional

Saute onion in oil over medium heat until soft and transparent, about 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and saute 2 minutes. Add water and cactus and bring to boil. Add eggs, stirring well, and oregano. Continue to boil until consistency of scrambled eggs, about 10 minutes. Add salt to taste.

Saute whole chiles in separate skillet until toasted, about 5 minutes. Remove seeds and chop. Sprinkle chiles on cactus and serve hot. Roll up in tortillas like tacos if desired.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings:

77 calories; 60 mg sodium; 53 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 10 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 1.81 grams fiber.

CACTUS WITH SHRIMP IN CALDILLO

Many Mexican dishes are prepared in a caldillo sauce, which is much like a gravy. In Mexico, such dishes are usually eaten with tortillas folded as little spoons.

6 cactus paddles, cut into 1-inch squares

4 cloves garlic

1/2 onion, chopped

Salt

Water

5 dried ancho chiles

5 dried mulato chiles

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined

Pepper

Boil cactus, 2 cloves garlic and 1/4 onion in salted water 15 minutes. Drain.

Toss ancho and mulato chiles in dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove seeds. Puree chiles, 2 cloves garlic and remaining onion in blender or food processor. Add water if needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, until consistency of paste.

Heat oil in pan over medium heat, add chile paste and cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 quart water and bring to slow simmer. Add shrimp, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste and cook until shrimp are cooked through, 7 to 8 minutes. Add cactus, bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 5 minutes.

8 servings. Each serving:

109 calories; 97 mg sodium; 43 mg cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 7 grams protein; 2.41 grams fiber.

CILANTRO CACTUS (IT’S A SNAP)

1 onion, chopped

4 or more serrano chiles, sliced

1/4 cup olive oil

8 cactus paddles, cut in strips

1 large bunch cilantro, leaves only, chopped

Salt

6 corn tortillas, optional

Saute onion and chiles in olive oil over medium heat until soft and transparent, about 3 minutes. Add cactus and cilantro and cook, stirring constantly so cactus and cilantro don’t burn but sap evaporates, about 15 minutes. Add salt to taste.

Serve as side dish or in tortillas as tacos.

6 servings. Each serving:

144 calories; 57 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 15 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 2.71 grams fiber.

CACTUS SALAD

6 cactus paddles (about 1 1/2 pounds), cut in spears

Baking soda

1 large onion, 1/2 minced and 1/2 sliced

2 large tomatoes, 1/2 minced and 1/2 sliced

4 or more serrano chiles, chopped

1 bunch cilantro, leaves only, chopped

2 tablespoons vinegar

1/2 cup olive oil

Salt, pepper

4 radishes, thinly sliced

1 avocado, sliced

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1 1/2 cups shredded cotija or queso fresco mexicano

Boil cactus in salted water with pinch baking soda 15 minutes. Drain and cool.

Combine cactus, minced onion, minced tomato, chiles and cilantro in large bowl.

Stir together vinegar, oil and salt and pepper to taste. Toss with cactus mixture.

Arrange sliced tomatoes, sliced onion, radishes and avocado on top. Sprinkle with oregano and cheese.

6 to 8 servings. Each of 8 servings:

261 calories; 295 mg sodium; 11 mg cholesterol; 22 grams fat; 13 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 2.83 grams fiber.

CACTUS JUICE WITH TEQUILA

CACTUS JUICE

2 pounds cactus paddles, chopped (about 8 cups)

DRINK

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons tequila, or more if desired

CACTUS JUICE

Puree chopped cactus in blender until smooth. Strain. Makes about 1 quart juice.

DRINK

Boil water and sugar until consistency of syrup, about 5 minutes. Add cactus juice and strain. Add tequila and pour into martini glasses over crushed ice.

8 servings. Each serving:

155 calories; 6 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 2.05 grams fiber.

* In photo above, Jim McCullough glassware from Blue Print, West Hollywood.

* On the cover, Jeff Cane platter from Marlow, Studio City.