RESTAURANTS : THE WINE LIST

The wine list at 1 Pico has no surprises: The winery names are all familiar and, except for the sparkling wines, are all from California.

Also no surprise, unfortunately, is the pricing. All the wines cost about 20% more than they should. For example, you’d have to fork over $25 for a bottle of the excellent 1991 Meridian Chardonnay--a wine that sells for no more than $12 at retail and usually is found below $10.

However, for the extra tariff you can sip wine from elegant glasses that are splendid part-lead crystal tulips. Service is excellent, another bonus.

Good white wines for the elegant food here include 1991 Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc, $23, and 1992 Trefethen Dry Riesling, $19. Among the reds, try 1991 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, $32, or 1990 Benziger Cabernet Sauvignon, $19. Even so, pricing seems a drawback. The Saintsbury Pinot Noir sells at retail shops for $16, less at discounters.

You can also have wines from Mondavi, Phelps, Arrowood, Spottswoode, Cakebread, Grgich Hills and other top names, but you’ll wind up paying more than you should.