If You’re in the Moo Shu for Chinese, This Is It

Some Chinese restaurants these days seem more intent on impressing with decor than with cuisine. You know, lots of turquoise and coral tile and maybe a bar surrounding a 1,000-gallon aquarium.

But if you’re one of those who judge a Chinese restaurant by the size and flavor of the chunks of pork in the pork-fried rice, you’re going to love Twin Panda in Mission Viejo.

It’s hard to find any dish at this place that isn’t both plentiful and delicious. The moo shu is a must--it’s a sort of Chinese burrito that’s available with vegetable, pork, chicken, beef or shrimp, and comes with a wonderfully spicy sauce.

Each order of egg foo yong includes two huge patties covered with gravy and a pile of meat or vegetables. It’s enough for the whole family to get a couple of helpings. And one friend always orders the champagne shrimp (which isn’t on the printed menu), lots of large shrimp in a subtle sauce.

Soft-spoken owner Dennis Sam always seems to be on hand with a warm smile, offering suggestions or just asking how everything is. The help is similarly courteous without being overbearing, and the service is usually prompt.

The prices are certainly reasonable. Pork-fried rice is $4.55. The moo shu ranges from $5.55 for vegetable to $6.95 for shrimp. The egg foo yong is $4.95. Early-bird specials are available before 7 p.m.

Twin Panda, Suite 15 in the Gateway Center, 24000 Alicia Parkway, Mission Viejo. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. (714) 768-3309.