The Bliss of Burgundy’s Canals : Charting a Personal Course Through the French Countryside Along the Canal du Nivernais

MARSEILLES-LES-AUBIGNY, France — Our canal cruiser glided across the small basin at Chitry-les-Mines,toward the first lock on the Canal du Nivernais. The first set of formidable iron gates were already open; the lock keeper had seen us approach.

My French-born wife, Janine, tossed the lock keeper the bow line and he looped it around a bollard and tossed it back to me, saying something in rapid-fire French . . . too fast for me to pick up. I turned to Janine for a translation.

“He complimented me on the way I handled the boat,” she said, a note of pride in her voice.

Our other crew member was a friend of Janine’s, Gisele Mignard, who the year before had navigated the length of the Canal du Midi in southern France.

The French are a bit macho and most canal boats have men at the wheel, so this eclusier may have been surprised to see women crew members accurately tossing lines and working the locks when needed.

The fact that we were all in the 65-plus age category was probably another novelty, as most other boats we met were crewed by young couples, or younger families with children. Older vacationers might be somewhat timid about driving their own boat down a canal, yet we have found it to be an easy, safe and relaxing way to see the French countryside.

This lock was our first move toward the village of Decize 50 miles beyond, where we would join the Canal Lateral a la Loire. In all, we would be traversing 87 miles, including 72 locks, during a one-week voyage through the lush Burgundy region of France.

For the next 25 locks we would be ascending close to 250 feet to the town of Baye, and from there we would descend another 34 locks to Decize.

I jumped off the boat to help the eclusier close the heavy gates that sealed us in the lock. For an instant all was quiet. Then we heard a ratcheting noise as the lock keeper cranked up the paddles that controlled the water flow into the lock through the forward gates.

An almost deafening rush of water emptied the canal ahead into our lock. We steadied the peniche (barge) with our fore and aft lines, and it rose gradually as if on a giant elevator. The ancient stone walls glistened wetly alongside as the lock filled. Slowly we reached the level of the canal at the other end.

I stepped off the boat again to help open and close the far gates. Once the boat cleared the second lock, my wife the skipper would pick me up along the canal bank 30 yards downstream. It isn’t essential that boat crews help with the gates, but the lock keepers appreciate it and, besides, it’s good exercise. We also tipped each eclusier a few francs, for which we would receive a “Merci, monsieur et mesdames . Bon voyage!”

While this wasn’t our first experience in do-it-yourself canal boating, we were still apprehensive about “locking through” that first time. It involves boat handling in fairly close quarters because the locks, though 120 feet long, were only 16 feet wide.

Sometimes we would lock through with one or two other boats, which left little room for error. Our limited boating experience on lakes helped to some extent, but managing a 37-foot barge turned out to be an easier challenge.

Fortunately, there is no current in the canals and the boats are limited to a top speed of about eight m.p.h. They are amply protected on both sides from occasional contacts with the lock walls by several fenders, so they are quite safe.

We found that many of our fellow canal voyagers had never handled a boat before, yet after their first few hours they were operating like pros.

We left the charter boat harbor in Chitry-les-Mines in late afternoon, and, as this was late September it would be getting dark shortly. It was time to think about a place to moor for our first night. A look at the canal chart showed places for overnight stays, and ahead was an ideal spot on the bank of the canal.

The canal charts, which were provided by the charter company (Blue Line Cruisers, in our case), were quite complete, and showed all the locks we would encounter, plus the distance between locks, the rise or drop in each one, nearby villages, bridges--all the information necessary to navigate these two canals successfully.

As the sun disappeared we tied up by the canal bank.

At that point the sheer pleasure of canal boating began to sink in. The solitude of the canal created an aura of complete relaxation, broken only by an occasional bird song. We came to unwind, and unwind we did . . . aided by a glass or two of excellent Burgundy wine, which we had picked up in Chitry for our journey.

After an aperitif we settled down for a supper of cheese, fresh bread, fruit and, of course, more of that famous Burgundy wine. The French usually have their big meal at noon, then a light supper. We have found it an easy custom to follow.

The following three days found us passing through typical rolling Burgundy farmland on our way to Baye, a small village on the edge of a large recreational lake.

This part of Burgundy is noted for raising big herds of Charolais beef cattle, and the fields on either side of the canal alternated between pasture and those devoted to hay and corn. The countryside is dotted with photogenic villages and farm settlements.

In the evenings we listened to music, read and studied the history of these canals. We learned that construction on the Canal du Nivernais began in 1783 but wasn’t completed until the 1830s, due to the French Revolution, Napoleon’s campaigns and the lack of a firm and functioning central government.

The canal was designed to connect Paris with the Loire River basin, and thus facilitate the movement of lumber and firewood to heat the buildings and stoke the bakeries of the capital city.

The Nivernais is part of the canal network known as the Canals du Centre, which also includes the Canal de Bourgogne, Canal de la Marne a la Saone, Canal de Roanne a Digoin, Canal de Briare and the Canal Lateral a la Loire.

The network was the commercial lifeline of France for the 18th and most of the 19th centuries. The oldest is the Canal de Briare, which opened in 1642, the youngest the Canal a la Loire, which opened in 1837.

As rail and highway transportation systems developed in the 20th Century, commercial use of the canals declined. But the commercial decline led to increased recreational boating in the 1930s, and again after World War II.

Today a wide choice of charter companies offer canal voyages from April through October. There are more than 3,300 miles of canals and waterways on which to barge through France, and a variety of boats available, from large luxury barges to the smaller, do-it-yourself charters that accommodate from two to eight people.

What are the attractions of a canal cruise? Aside from the feeling that you are in another, more tranquil world, there are myriad sightseeing opportunities along the way, from medieval towns and villages to historic landmarks.

There are other advantages, too. If you enjoy cooking, there is a complete galley or kitchen on board. If you don’t want to cook, you can hop onto a bicycle and ride to one of the many restaurants you’ll find on the list provided by your charter company. Unlike the hotel barges that cater to 8 to 10 guests and have fixed itineraries and meal times, you can set your own schedule.

Our route first took us in a southerly direction, past several villages where we stopped to explore ancient churches, chateaux and fortifications, and absorb the history of the region. Chatillon en Bazois, with its imposing chateau, was one such stop. Another was Cercy-la-Tour, which got its name from a famous watch tower and castle.

Then there were the market towns: Corbigny, Baye, Sardy, Bazolles and Chevenon, to name a few. We found delightful small cafes, plus food and beverage supplies. In most cases we could walk to the stores and cafes from our stopping points on the canal.

The city of Nevers was fascinating. The Canal a la Loire passes by close enough so that we could bicycle to Nevers, cross the bridge over the Loire and spend a few hours in the old section of town. We also managed a leisurely luncheon at the Auberge Porte du Croux, a two-star restaurant overlooking the old ramparts and main gate to the old city.

Nevers is an architectural buff’s delight, with a mix of styles from the 10th through 18th centuries. Most imposing was the Ducal Palace, where the dukes of Burgundy often lived. Beautifully restored, it dominates the main square of the city.

Decize, at the junction of the Loire River and the two canals we were navigating, was also interesting, so we spent an entire day there, sightseeing and dining.

Among the supplies provided by our charter company was a list of restaurants along our route. This is where our investment in rental bikes paid off, as some of the villages are two or three kilometers from the canal. Bicycles are contracted for when you make the boat arrangements. They cost us about $20 for the week.

From Decize our route changed to northwest, on the Canal a la Loire. This was the easiest part of our trip, as we now had only 12 more locks to pass through.

However, two of these--at the village of Guerin--were the largest we had experienced during the voyage. They were electrically operated and had been designed to handle the large commercial barges. The total drop (as we were still descending) going through these locks was more than 60 feet.

Just before entering these locks, we sailed over a river on a canal bridge that was about half a mile long. Preceding us was a large commercial barge, which we watched go through the two locks that followed, with only inches to spare on either side. No room for us to lock through with that barge, so we had a separate and thrilling ride through these two locks that dwarfed our tiny craft.

After making our way through four more locks, we finally tied up at the Blue Line headquarters at Marseilles-les-Aubigny, seven days almost to the hour from our departure. One final toast and we packed our gear, put Gisele on the TGV to Montpellier and headed back to the United States via Frankfurt.

It had been a memorable week. The satisfaction in completing this trip without any help from anybody was exhilirating. We had been the captains of our own ship, this threesome of seniors who navigated almost 100 miles and 72 locks.

We couldn’t wait to begin thinking about our next canal voyage.

There are many opportunities to charter your own barge in France. We got ours through Blue Line Cruisers. The price was about $800, including two bicycles, for the seven-day, six-night excursion. Gasoline was $55. Our cost for food, beverages and outside meals was about $200.

Charter rates vary widely. A one-week cruise can cost $800 to $2,000, depending on the size of the boat and number of passengers. Blue Line charged us by the boat; not all companies do it that way.

Best times to charter are May, June and September. The weather is good, rates are better (July and August are the high season, with correspondingly higher rates) and there’s not as much traffic on the canals.

Here is what you can expect to find if you charter your own peniche :

--Navigation charts and complete operating instructions in English. These include step-by-step procedures for “locking through.”

--Complete mooring and safety equipment.

--A galley complete with propane gas stove, refrigerator, pots, pans, dishes and eating and serving utensils.

--A bath with toilet, shower and washbasin.

--A cabin heater, as the nights can be chilly in the spring and fall.

--A linen package that includes sheets, blankets, pillows and towels. Some companies charge for linens; ours did not.

--Folding chairs and table, for use on board or picnicking on shore.

All of the charter operators give you and your crew a one- to two-hour check-out cruise that will take you through at least one lock. Even if you’ve never driven a boat, it is surprising how quickly you will learn.

In the event of a breakdown the charter company provides a chase truck that brings a trained mechanic to the scene as soon as possible.

If you don’t speak French, it would be helpful to take along a French-English phrase book to help communicate with the lock keepers.

The most direct route to the Burgundy canals is to fly to Paris, then take the train to the town nearest your charter company. That could be Nevers, Joigny or Auxerre. Most charter companies will arrange to pick you up.

Plan to arrive the day before your voyage begins so you can overcome jet lag and start to become familiar with the area. The charter company can help arrange for your hotel for that first night.

If you rent a car and drive from Paris directly to your charter office, the company will store the car during your cruise at no charge.

If you have booked a one-way cruise, they will drive your car to your destination for a small charge. A one-way charter may include an extra fee for returning the boat to its base.

Recommended French charter companies:

Blue Line Cruisers. Central reservations: Le Grand Bassin, BP 21 11400 Castelnaudary, France.

Europ’-Yachting, 7 Rue Saint-Lazare, 75009 Paris, France.

Crown Cruisers, Bassin de la Jonction, 58300 Decize, France.

Les Canalous, Port de Plaisance, 45250 Briare, France.

Gironde Plaisance, 43 Bis, Rue des Salieres, 33210 Langon, France.

Liberty Line, Levee du Canal, 58340 Cercy la Tour, France.

Locaboat Plaisance, Quai du Port-au- Bois, 89300 Joigny, France.

Navig France, 172 Blvd. Berthier, 75017 Paris, France.

For more information on travel to France, contact the French Government Tourist Office, 9454 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 303, Beverly Hills 90212, (213) 271-6665.