Gefilte Fish Stars in Updated Recipes : New Versions of Traditional Dish Are Just in Time for Rosh Hashanah

Jews looking for something different to serve on Rosh Hashanah might consider an updated version of gefilte fish. A symbol of fertility and immortality, the fish is a traditional part of the menu for the Jewish New Year, which begins at sundown on Friday.

The recipes following come from some unexpected sources--one via Mexico City, and several others from Italian and French restaurants, not generally noted for their Jewish cuisine.

Lea Remba, who moved from Mexico City to Los Angeles with her family in 1984, offers a ground fish that is formed into patties, breaded, fried and then simmered in a spicy tomato sauce.

Patrick Healy, chef/owner of Champagne, a Los Angeles restaurant, shared his recipe for Gefilte Fish Steamed in Spinach Leaves, which is served with a Tangerine and Horseradish Sauce.

Joyce Goldstein, chef/owner of San Francisco’s Square One, provided the recipe for gefilte fish with the novel addition of ground almonds and a hint of cinnamon.

Michel Richard of Citrus Restaurant in Los Angeles prepares his version of gefilte fish using thin fillets of sole stuffed with a mousse of salmon. The fish is served with an onion sauce.

A Favorite Version

One of my favorite versions of gefilte fish is False Fish, which is made with ground chicken or turkey and served with Horseradish Mayonnaise.

Michel Ohayon, of Koutoubia restaurant, explained that a whole fish is served by Jewish families in Morocco every Friday night and is included in every holiday meal, especially Rosh Hashanah. Ohayon explained that a whole fish is not practical for small families, so he substitutes fillets. The red peppers under the fish are the best part; be sure to scoop them up with the fish when serving. The peppers can be very hot, so use discretion.

Chef Wolfgang Puck shares his recipe for gefilte fish, which appears on the menu for special occasions at his Spago restaurant in Los Angeles. It is a mixture of ground carp, pike and whitefish, seasoned with tarragon, wrapped in cabbage leaves and lightly poached.

LEA REMBA’S MEXICAN-STYLE

GEFILTE FISH

3 pounds sea bass

3 pounds carp

3 onions, thinly sliced

3 carrots, thinly sliced

10 saltine crackers

3 eggs

1/2 cup water

1 tablespoon kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Dash sugar

1 cup ground cracker crumbs

Oil for frying

Spicy Tomato Sauce

Grind fish, onions, carrots and crackers in grinder or food processor. Place in large wooden chopping bowl and mix in eggs. Chop fish mixture while gradually adding water, salt, pepper and sugar.

Shape mixture into 1-inch thick patties and coat with cracker crumbs. Heat about 1 inch oil in large nonstick skillet and brown patties on both sides. Set aside.

About 1/2 to 1 hour before serving, place patties in Spicy Tomato Sauce and simmer 30 minutes. Makes about 3 dozen patties.

Spicy Tomato Sauce

12 tomatoes, quartered

2 onions, quartered

1/4 cup minced garlic

1/4 cup oil

3 onions, thinly sliced

2 green peppers, seeded and cut in strips

Water

2 sweet red peppers, seeded and cut in strips

2 fresh poblano chiles, seeded and cut in strips

2 serrano chiles, seeded and minced

3 bay leaves

1 (8-ounce) can pitted green olives, drained

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 cup minced parsley

3 or 4 black peppercorns

Salt

Blend 6 tomatoes, 1 quartered onion and 1 tablespoon garlic in food processor. Set aside. Repeat procedure with remaining 6 tomatoes, 1 quartered onion and 1 tablespoon garlic. Add to already processed mixture.

Heat oil in large skillet and saute sliced onions until very brown. Add remaining 2 tablespoons garlic and green and red peppers and simmer 2 minutes. Add tomato mixture and simmer until very thick.

Add 2 cups water, poblano and serrano chiles, bay leaves, olives, capers, oregano, parsley and peppercorns. Season to taste with salt. Simmer until thick, about 30 minutes. Add more water if needed. Remove bay leaves. Makes about 8 cups.

PATRICK HEALY’S SPINACH-

WRAPPED GEFILTE FISH

1/4 pound whitefish fillets

1/4 pound cod fillets

2 egg whites, lightly beaten

1 large shallot, finely chopped

Salt

White pepper

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

6 large spinach leaves, washed and blanched

Tangerine-Horseradish Sauce

1 tomato, peeled, seeded and finely chopped

Place whitefish and cod in bowl of food processor fitted with metal blade and puree. Chill in refrigerator.

Puree chilled fish mixture again adding egg whites and shallot. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Continue blending adding olive oil in slow constant stream.

Divide mixture into 4 to 6 equal portions. Wrap each portion in plastic wrap, molding into sausage-like shape.

Poach in gently simmering salted water 4 to 5 minutes or until firm. Drain and chill in ice water. Remove plastic wrap from gefilte fish and pat dry.

Wrap each portion tightly with spinach leaf. Chill until serving time. Serve with Tangerine-Horseradish Sauce and garnish with chopped tomato. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Tangerine-Horseradish Sauce

Juice of 2 1/2 tangerines or oranges

1 egg yolk

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup peanut oil

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon prepared white horseradish

Salt, pepper

Boil tangerine juice in saucepan or microwave oven until reduced to 1/4 cup. Chill.

Place egg yolk, mustard and lemon juice in blender or food processor and blend well. Add peanut and olive oils in slow stream, at medium speed, 1 after other. Add chilled tangerine juice and horseradish. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and chill. Makes about 3 cups.

Note: Although many recipes call for uncooked eggs, the U.S. Department of Agriculture has found them to be a potential carrier of food-borne illness and recommends that diners avoid eating raw eggs. Commercial egg substitutes may be used in place of raw eggs in certain circumstances. Check egg substitute package for applications.

JOYCE GOLDSTEIN’S GEFILTE FISH

Bones, head and skin from 12 pounds whitefish and pike

4 onions, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1/2 cup chopped peeled celery root

Dash sugar

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

1 cinnamon stick

4 quarts water

Fish Balls

3 carrots, peeled and sliced

Salt, pepper

Fresh Horseradish Sauce

Place bones, head and skin of whitefish and pike, onions, carrots, celery root, sugar, peppercorns, cinnamon stick and water in large pot. Bring to boil, skim and simmer about 30 minutes. Strain stock and chill.

Bring stock to boil in large pot. Drop in Fish Balls and simmer 30 minutes, turning and basting with broth. Transfer fish balls with slotted spoon to bowl and chill.

Drop carrot slices in simmering stock and poach 7 minutes. Remove carrots with slotted spoon and set aside. Reduce fish stock to thick consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pour fish stock over gefilte fish balls. Add carrot slices. Chill until ready to serve. Serve with Fresh Horseradish Sauce. Makes about 4 dozen fish balls.

Fish Balls

6 pounds whitefish fillets

6 pounds pike fillets

4 medium onions, pureed in food processor

6 eggs

1/4 cup matzo meal

1/2 cup ice water

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

2 tablespoons sugar

Dash ground cinnamon, optional

3 tablespoons very finely ground almonds

Grind whitefish and pike together twice for very fine texture. Turn out on plastic chopping board. Combine fish, onions and eggs by chopping, blending and mixing well.

Continue chopping, adding matzo meal and ice water small amount at time. Add salt, white pepper, sugar, cinnamon and almonds. Chill mixture over ice few hours.

Test for seasonings by making tiny sample fish ball and poaching in fish broth. Adjust seasonings, then wet hands, form mixture into ovals. Place on baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Refrigerate until ready to poach. Makes about 48.

Fresh Horseradish Sauce

1 (1/2-pound) piece horseradish root, peeled

2 tablespoons white vinegar, about

Dash sugar

Dash salt

Cut horseradish root into small chunks. Grate on side of grater or puree in food processor with 2 tablespoons white vinegar.

Add sugar and salt. Add additional vinegar to moisten if necessary. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Makes about 1 cup.

MICHEL RICHARD’S GEFILTE FISH

10 (2 1/4-ounce) fillets of sole

1/4 pound salmon fillets

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup whipping cream

Salt, pepper

Green Onion Sauce

Place 2 sole fillets and salmon in food processor. Process until fish is pureed. With processor running, add olive oil, cream and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Process until smooth.

Sprinkle remaining sole fillets with salt and pepper to taste. Cover each fillet with layer of salmon mousse. Starting at short end of each fillet roll up, jellyroll fashion. Place each roll on separate piece of plastic wrap, twist ends tightly and tie with kitchen string.

Poach in simmering water, covered, 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand in water 5 minutes.

Divide Green Onion Sauce equally between 8 serving plates. Remove plastic wrap from gefilte fish and place 1 in center of each plate. Makes 8 servings.

Green Onion Sauce

1/2 cup sliced green onions

1/2 cup vegetable stock

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon prepared pesto sauce

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat green onions and vegetable stock over high heat until liquid is reduced by half. Stir in butter until melted, add pesto and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

FALSE FISH

2 1/2 quarts chicken stock

2 onions, sliced

5 stalks celery, sliced

5 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 pounds ground chicken or turkey

2 eggs

1/2 cup matzo meal or potato starch

Lettuce leaves

Horseradish-Tomato Mayonnaise

Combine chicken stock, 1 sliced onion, 3 stalks sliced celery and 3 sliced carrots in large pot. Bring to boil over high heat. Lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Combine chicken and remaining onion, celery and carrots in grinder or wooden bowl. Grind or chop mixture until well blended. Add eggs, matzo meal and 1/2 cup chicken stock. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Blend well. Mixture should be tender and light to touch.

Wet hands with cold water and shape mixture into 2-inch ovals. Place in chicken stock, bring to boil, cover partially and simmer 30 minutes or until cooked. Transfer to large bowl with broth. Cool, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Serve on bed of lettuce with Horseradish-Tomato Mayonnaise. Makes about 16 servings.

Horseradish-Tomato Mayonnaise

1 cup mayonnaise

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish

Combine mayonnaise, tomatoes and horseradish in large bowl, mixing well. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

MICHEL OHAYON’S MOROCCAN

SEA BASS

12 drided red peppers

6 (8-ounce) fillets sea bass

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced lengthwise

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

3/4 cup olive oil

2 teaspoons paprika

Salt, pepper

1 quart water or fish stock

Slice dried red peppers in half, remove seeds and rinse with cold water. Place in bottom of large skillet, skin side down, and place fish on top.

Sprinkle garlic all around fish. Place parsley and cilantro on top of fish. Sprinkle with olive oil, paprika, salt and pepper. Carefully pour water around fish. Cover and cook on high heat 10 minutes. Transfer fish to warm plate and simmer sauce until thick. Makes 6 servings.

WOLFGANG PUCK’S GEFILTE FISH

IN CABBAGE LEAVES

6 slices egg bread

1 quart fish stock

1/2 pound carp fillets

1/2 pound pike fillets

1 pound whitefish fillets

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon oil

1/2 yellow onion, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

1/2 cup chopped parsley

Dash cayenne pepper

3 eggs, separated

12 large cabbage leaves

3 carrots, cut julienne

1 large leek, white part only, cut julienne

Prepared horseradish

Remove bread crusts and discard. Tear bread in pieces and soak in 1 cup fish stock. Season fish to taste with salt and pepper and grind in food processor twice.

Heat oil in nonstick skillet and saute onion until tender. Combine ground fish, onion, tarragon and parsley, mixing well. Season to taste with cayenne.

Squeeze bread to remove excess stock and blend into fish mixture with egg yolks. Beat egg whites until frothy and fold in.

Blanch cabbage leaves until tender and rinse in cold water. Place about 3 tablespoons fish mixture in center of cabbage leaf and roll into firm package.

Fill large pot with fish stock, 1 1/2 inches deep, and bring to boil. Place cabbage wrapped fish packages in simmering stock. Add julienned carrots and leek. Cover and simmer 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove and chill several hours. Serve with julienned carrots, leek and horseradish. Makes 12 servings.