Fashion King Triumphs on Own Terms at Paris Show

PARIS — Yves Saint Laurent triumphed on his own terms in the fall couture collection he presented here Wednesday.

For almost 30 years, from his brief reign at Christian Dior--after Dior died in 1957--to the opening of his own house in 1963, the 51-year-old designer has been considered fashion’s king. This season, with Christian Lacroix’s entry into couture, Saint Laurent has seen the first serious challenge for his crown.

Ironically, the man who has done the most to keep Saint Laurent No. 1, John B. Fairchild, publisher of the trade newspaper Women’s Wear Daily, was banned from the show, and attending photographers were obliged to sign a form forbidding them to sell photos to WWD.

The split between Saint Laurent and Fairchild reportedly came about because of Fairchild’s enthusiasm for Lacroix’s talent.

On the runway, rather than trying to compete with Lacroix, Saint Laurent clung to the classics that are synonymous with his name: impeccably man-tailored jackets and slim straight skirts, whether matched in a suit or as separates.

It was Saint Laurent’s total endorsement of truly short lengths (at least four inches above the knee) in his January couture collection that gave short its authenticity everywhere. And, except for a mid-calf skirt under a mid-calf coat and one pantsuit, almost everything is short for fall.

Saint Laurent faithfuls, such as Catherine Deneuve, Helene Rochas, Paloma Picasso, Judy Taubman and Nan Kempner, visibly perked up once the evening segment of the collection got under way.

Sure to be high on their shopping lists were the embroidered suits with beaded bows outlining narrow cardigan jackets and on vividly colored satin skirts.

More late-day beauties were the hip-draped satin chemises in colors ranging from glazed chestnut to marigold--with added glamour from heart-shaped, oversize, flat felt hats. Glittering jewelry was tied together with black velvet bows; gloves twinkled with sequins.

Most fun was a short cardigan jacket, re-embroidered with blue mice, paired with a black satin mini and at least 10 very short or floor-length fluffs of ostrich or bird of paradise feathers, straight out of a Zizi Jeanmaire spectacle. Saint Laurent even did the wedding dress in pink feathers, a puff ball of fluff stopping at mid-thigh, accompanied on the runway by Edith Piaf’s “La Vie en Rose.”

Backstage, Saint Laurent, wearing a tan poplin jacket, blue jeans, desert boots and a fluffy new hairdo, was all but smothered by well-wishers, while his business partner, Pierre Berge, announced to one and all: “Yves is still the master.”